Bike
Outdoor
Train
Lifestyle
Shop by Print
Words by Agnès Castellan
Photos: Agnès Castellan and Eleanor Moseman (photos 2, 3, 10)
Nestled in the majestic Himalayas of northern India, Ladakh is a breathtaking region bordered by Tibet (China), Afghanistan, and Pakistan. Renowned for its sparse population, rich culture, and deep historical ties to Tibet, Ladakh is also the highest plateau in India, with most of its terrain soaring above 10,000 feet.
For years, I dreamt of visiting Ladakh, drawn by its mountain biking scene and vast cultural heritage. Nothing makes me happier than mountain biking and experiencing new cultures all at once!
Given its remote location—far from my home in Central Oregon— it took a few tries before it could happen. However, in July 2024, the stars aligned, and this wonderful trip became a reality!
I began my adventure in Delhi, spending a couple of nights there to recover from the 12.5-hour jet lag. I treated myself to a rejuvenating massage and reconnected with friends before continuing my journey.
After a day and a half in Delhi, I boarded a flight to Leh, Ladakh, with my mountain bike in tow. I had heard tales of crazy turbulent flights on this route, but my experience was smooth, punctuated only by a few bumps, typical of high-altitude flying. I was captivated by the sight of the majestic mountain ranges! As we approached Leh, what struck me most is how we flew through mountain ranges and peaks —picture Top Gun 2 when they fly through the tight canyons. It felt as though I could reach out the window and touch the mountains. Wildly beautiful!
Upon landing, the first sight that greeted me was the Spituk Monastery, and it hit me: I had finally arrived in the Himalayas!
At 12,000 feet, Leh requires a period of acclimatization, so I planned to spend 2-3 days exploring the town and savoring the local cuisine while getting my bearings. Leh is a vibrant melting pot of cultures and religions, with a mosque, a Buddhist temple, a Catholic church, and a synagogue all within a 500-meter radius. My favorite moments were spent in the bustling evening market, where Ladakhis, Indians, Tibetans, Buddhist monks, and tourists mingled together.
There are three types of lodging options: hotel, guest house or homestay. I chose to stay at Zee Guest House (I highly recommend it!). It is a charming, Ladakhi-owned establishment just a 15-minute walk from the main market. The quieter location offered stunning mountain views and half-way up the hill to the local bike park called Disko Valley (a win when you start pedaling at 12,000 ft – ha!).
After a couple of leisurely days of acclimatization, walking up and down the hill to/from my guest house, and eating delicious food, I felt ready to hit the bike park. Disko Valley has jump lines, flow lines and freeride lines. Expect to pedal or push your bike up to take laps. But if I could do it, anyone can!
I got to meet the amazing crew that builds and manages the place. And, right as the sun was setting, I got to ride my very first freeride line – that wouldn’t be the last of my trip!
I discovered that a good portion of the riding in Ladakh is freeriding, with some trails and roads sprinkled in between. Hannah Bergman and Vero Sandler were there in 2019. I got to see IRL some if the incredible lines they rode and… needless today, not anytime soon for me – ha!
I absolutely loved the road sections, as it allowed me to discover villages, monasteries, see people going about their daily life and greet them with my now favorite word “Julley” [djoo-lay]. This versatile word serves as a greeting, farewell, thank you, acknowledgment and more. It is just about the only word you need in Ladakh!
The Disko Valley crew organizes and guides rides. I joined them for three unforgettable routes: South Pullo, Sham Valley and Warila Pass.
Each ride was spectacular, but Warila Pass stood out for its uniqueness. The ascent involved navigating endless switchbacks until we reached an altitude of 17,429 feet—the highest point I had ever experienced! From there, we rode straight down the mountain, carving our own lines as we went. It was exhilarating to witness everyone’s creativity and unique riding styles shining through their line choices.
The main highlight of my trip was connecting with CT Kids Library, a local non-profit organization supporting underprivileged Ladakhi children through after school activities and sports programs. CT Kids and Disko Valley organized a fleet of bike rentals, and my friend Eleanor (a bad ass photographer, videographer and activist, who is my Ladakh mentor) and I had the privilege of coaching a group of 13-15 year-old girls on how to ride mountain bikes. Some already knew how to ride a bike, but some didn’t!
It was so humbling for me as a mountain bike coach to come up, on the spot, with ways of teaching an (almost) adult how to ride a bike; It was also humbling to recognize my privilege as a western woman, with access to basic things many women do not have access to in many places of the world.
The girls were so excited and grateful for this opportunity, but little did they know how profoundly their enthusiasm impacted me. It was such an honor for me to play a (very small) part in their journey.
Surprisingly, the biggest challenge of my trip wasn't altitude, jet lag, or adapting to a new culture—it was packing! I needed a mix of bike gear, bike clothes, I was bringing a lot of gear for friends and local riders, and I needed clothes “dressy” enough for my stay in Delhi where I had dinners and friend meetups, and comfy enough to ride and hang out in the Himalayas.
My staples ended up being:
- Short Sleeve Explorer Shirt – I dressed it up for dinners in Delhi, dress it down over loose jeans and sandals in the mountains. And rode in it for bike park seshs.
- Explorer Cropped Pant – I dressed it up and down. Flowy, ventilated and quick-drying: perfect for sightseeing under the Himalayan sun.
- Beyond Tech Long Sleeve – The ideal top for long riding days. It is comfortable for both warm and chilly conditions. It’s flowy and quick-drying, so you never get too hot. Plus, the sleeves stay up when you pull them up. When temps are colder, the loose fit allows to layer underneath.
- Beyond Tech Boxy Tee – Similar to the Explorer Short-Sleeve Shirt, it is easy to dress up or down, and ride in.
- All Time Vented Pant – The terrain is really dusty and the sun blasts hard at this altitude, so the pants offered perfect coverage, while allowing airflow thanks to the perforations at the back of the leg.
Super mega awesome bonus: All these items were easy to handwash, dried quickly, and didn’t wrinkle!
Julley Ladakh! I hope to see you again very soon!
(I may or may not be planning another trip there next Spring) ;)
-
You can follow Agnès’s adventures on IG @agnes_MTByogi
